Oregon 511AX Saw Chain Bench Grinder/Sharpener

!±8± Oregon 511AX Saw Chain Bench Grinder/Sharpener

Brand : Oregon | Rate : | Price : $349.99
Post Date : Dec 29, 2011 11:51:26 | Usually ships in 24 hours

This grinder is a durable machine built with the quality and features needed for frequent high-volume chain sharpening. Comes with 1/8in., 3/16in. and 1/4in. grinding wheels for sharpening chain pitches up to 3/4in. Also includes built-in light, wheel-dressing brick and a template for pitch, depth-gauge setting and wheel contour. Upgrades from Item# 19304 include new adjustment capabilities for accurate grinds as the wheel wears and self-centering vise for equal grind angles without adjustment. Meets ANSI standards. Application: For frequent high-volume chain sharpening, Mount Type: Bench mount, Motor: 0.38 HP, 110V 3 Amp motor, Rated RPM: 3,400, Chain Pitch (in.): From 1/4 to 3/4, Bore Diameter (in.): 7/8, Wheel Diameter (in.): 5 3/4 max., Includes: 1/8in., 3/16in. and 1/4in. grinding wheels , and self centering vise, Wheel Included: Yes, Includes (qty.): 1 Chain saw sharpener, 3 grinding wheels, 1 pitch template, and 1 wheel dressing brick

• Motor and Electrical Specifications: Single phase, 115V-Ac, 60 HZ, 3 amp, 285 watt, 3400 RPM direct-drive motor, .038 horsepower
• Sharpens 1/4-Inch, .325-Inch, 3/8-Inch, 1/2-Inch, and 3/4-Inch pitch chains
• The grinder comes with three grinding wheel with the thickness of 1/4-Inch, 1/8-Inch, and 3/16-Inch
• Includes a wheel-dressing brick and a template for: depth-gauge setting, and wheel contour
• Allows for equal grind angles without adjustment and new adjustment capabilitities for accurate grinds as the wheel wears

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!±8± Poulan P4018WT Wild Thing 18-Inch 40cc 2-Cycle Gas Powered Easy Start Chain Saw

Brand : Poulan | Rate : | Price : $159.99
Post Date : Dec 26, 2011 19:25:43 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Poulan P4018WT Wild Thing 18-Inch 40cc 2-Cycle Gas Powered Easy Start Chain Saw

• Perfect for light cutting and most jobs around the yard
• Super Clean Air Filter System - extends the life of the air filter
• Gear driven automatic oiler
• Primer bulb for easy starting
• Non-CARB Compliant/Not For Sale In California

More Specification..!!

Poulan P4018WT Wild Thing 18-Inch 40cc 2-Cycle Gas Powered Easy Start Chain Saw

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Do You Know How To Measure A Chain Saw Blade And Chain?

!±8± Do You Know How To Measure A Chain Saw Blade And Chain?

Is your chainsaw starting to seem dull and not perform as well? Looks like it's time to replace the chain. In order to do this, you will need to know the length of both the chainsaw blade as well as the length and size of your chain. If you've checked out the manufacturers' charts, they might seem a little overwhelming. But it really is pretty simple once you understand what's involved in the length of the blade and chainsaw chain.

When you're ready to replace your chain, the first thing to do is determine the size of your chainsaw bar. If you happen to have an Oregon chainsaw, this should be easy. Just check the first two numbers of the ten-digit model number that is stamped on the motor end of the blade. That's your chainsaw bar length.

Don't have an Oregon chainsaw that easily shows you the length of the blade? Then here are some tips for figuring it out yourself.

What's The Best Way To Measure A Chain Saw Blade?

To measure the chainsaw blade itself is simple enough to do. Just put your measuring tape at the end of the bar up against the casing and measure straight down the bar all the way to the tip of the blade.

Blade and bar are two terms that are both used to indicate the same item. This is the blade that extends from the casing of the motor and carries the chain which is what does the sawing for you.

Manufacturers were kind enough to standardize the chainsaw blade lengths into two-inch increments. The most common sizes are 16, 18, and 20 inches although the full range goes from 10 to 42 inches! When you measure your blade, round up to the nearest 2-inch measurement if needed.

Measuring A Chainsaw Chain

To measure the chain on your chainsaw, there are two things you will need to know ... the number of drive links and the pitch of the chain.

A drive link is simply a tooth on the chain and your chain's length is determined by the number of drive links (or teeth). The pitch of the chain also affects the size of the drive links.

The pitch of the chain is important to know as it must match the pitch of both the drive sprocket as well as the bar nose sprocket. This should be stamped on the drive link but if you need to measure the pitch yourself, take the distance between any 3 rivets of the chain and divide by 2.

As an example, a 1/4" pitch chain might have 52 drive links and be 2.17 feet in length, while a 3/8" pitch with 52 drive links would be 3.18 feet in length. So the pitch affects the drive link size which affects your blade's length.

Still unsure? Just check with your chain saw's manufacturer or anyone who makes chains and they will be able to clear up any confusion you may have.

Do You Know How To Measure A Chain Saw Blade And Chain?

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Clear Plans Necessary to Rebrick House

!±8± Clear Plans Necessary to Rebrick House

For those who live in a home with a brick exterior, there may come a time when it is necessary to put new brick out there for everyone to see. While this step is not often called for, there are times when replacing the mortar (tuck pointing) is simply not enough to bring the beautiful brick exterior back to its original status. It is at this point that the homeowner may have to "rebrick the house."

If the quality of the mortar and bricks was poor enough from the start that replacement is necessary years later, there may be no other choice. In recent years, some homeowners have chosen to install siding made from a new material instead of investing in new brick. But if the homeowner feels that only new brick will suffice for the home, it is time to start looking into the bricks that are available (and checking on costs too).

Gathering some basic information is a good first step: Get a good measurement for the overall size of the home, get a list of the color and quality of brick available from area suppliers, and spend a good amount of time talking with experts who could perform this task. While planning the brick replacement, the homeowner should make sure to include plans for windows and doors, soffit and other trim items. Having this information available will be more than useful. It will be absolutely necessary for a successful project.

For most homes with a brick exterior, the walls were completed before any trim was put in place (window and door trim, edge trim etc.). If this is the case, it will be necessary to carefully remove the trim before removal of the brick. As mentioned earlier, a plan that includes new brick should always include careful consideration of the trim. Removal of wood trim around windows and doors, for example, should be done very carefully if some of that trim is to be reused. Of course, if all new trim is in the works, the removal can proceed much more quickly. Keep in mind that wood on older homes will probably have to be replaced unless it is in perfect condition.

Replacement of brick exteriors (and other exterior materials) will also involve planning for careful removal of trim and masonry if there are arched areas above doors and windows. This step will involve attention to detail if the original appearance of the home is to be preserved. Of course, the brick and labor will account for most of the cost of the project. However, these special areas will add somewhat to the overall cost.

With many home renovation projects, the homeowner and family members may be able to take care of some of the labor (significantly reducing cost). However, this may not be possible with a project involving removal and reinstallation of brick. Many masonry/brick contractors will have their own crews and will prefer to do all the work themselves. However, sometimes the "demolition" steps can be performed by homeowners and family members to reduce the overall price. For example, family members may be able to remove wood trim, especially if it will not be reused. But the homeowner should be careful coordinate this work so that the structure is ready when the new brick arrives.

Clear Plans Necessary to Rebrick House

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Replacing Rotten Logs - A DIY Guide

!±8± Replacing Rotten Logs - A DIY Guide

What causes logs to rot?

The rotten log dilemma

Wood only rots between a moisture content of 30 to 60%. Thus if you find a log that is rotten, it is due to the wood/log getting too wet. Generally this results from a few basic causes of water reaching the logs in fairly large amounts. Many times I have talked with people over the telephone and told them their problem without them telling me much about their home.

There are many reasons or wood to rot:
The roof is the umbrella that protects the home from the elements. Thus minimal overhangs results in rain drenching the logs. The lack of rain gutters and down spouts allows the water to run off of the roof and be blown onto the logs by the wind. In many cases rain running off of the roof will hit the open deck and splash water against the logs. Finally bushes planted too close to the home can also divert rain water against the logs and this will leave the logs damp for some time as the bushes keep the sun from hitting the logs and drying them.
Repairing Rotten Logs:
If you have logs which are rotting (generally the lower courses of logs), then you must repair or replace them and then be prepared to take care of the root cause of water saturating the logs.
If the logs have some surface rot, you can chisel out the rotten part of the log down to good solid wood. Then drench the problem area with a wood preservative such as Penetreat. This wood preservative would be the water soluble type which is a borate compound. Then use wood epoxy to cover the area in need of repair.
Replacing Rotten Logs:
First obtain a suitable replacement from a supplier that handles the same log type as found in you home. Then cut out the offending log using a saber saw with a blade made for cutting metal. This will cut through the spikes or log screws holding the logs together. You will then need to remove the rotten logs using a chain saw and wrecking bar. If the log is badly rotten then this job should not be hard to do. If the logs are tongue and groove type then the new logs will have to have the tongue removed on top of the new log so that it can slipped into the space left by the old log. It can be attached to the solid logs of the home with the use of plated deck screws. The final touch is to use a good grade of chinking to seal the joints between the new logs and the existing logs in the log home. Now apply a wood preservative to the affected area (preferably the whole home) and then refinish the home.
As was mentioned earlier, now take care of the problem that resulted in the logs getting wet in the first place!

Replacing Rotten Logs - A DIY Guide

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